Muwor Part 2 :Bandar Maharani

Tauke Wah San Kopitiam, established since 1931

To top off our lavish lunch, we washed down a cup of molten orgasmic experience christened Kopi 434 by the Kopi Merchants of Muar. It was buttery, mildly sweetened, yet it has enough kao factor to set your eyeballs up to heaven. I was ooh aah-ing like nobody's business, it sounded almost inappropriate according to kopitiam etiquette. The approving look from the tauke allowed me to just let go and let the kopi take me to parallel realms.

The icing on the cake was that everything totaled up to just RM8. Tauke happy, me happy.

Mamak Cendol and Rojak

A few steps from the kopitiam is a makeshift stall that sells cendol and rojak. We were too stuffed to sample any. I later learned from Lollies that the mamak makes the best rojak and cendol. Aiyooo...rugi.

We drove around that little town, I could not help but noticed the remnants of past glory. A rundown cafe complete with a renaissance balcony, perfect setting for a Romeo and Juliet play, aptly named Paris Cafe. An old majestic hotel that might well be where uppercrusts of yesteryear had a ball. The Customs Building is a pretty sight too. Moorish accents here and there, with a little romanesque influence. It has the look of a church actually, but the dome made it look like a mosque.Save for the ugly modern windows they installed, it's magnificent.

I wonder who ordered the glass windows and the awnings?

A few rounds along Jalan Sulaiman and Jalan Abdullah, I noticed that there is a clan-ish aura about the whole place. Like it's been taken care of by a secret society whereby things are done in a certain way, administered by an authority more powerful than the local administration. I am quick at detecting all these things. Lollies happily gave me a little bit of background and I read a bit here and there.

Muar has a colorful history. During the early Hindu empire Majapahit period, Muar is one of its states. Hindu fortuneseekers traveled here in search of gold. The Ortelius map records that Muar was already significantly populated by the 14th century. Not only it was established as a fortalenza for the Portuguese against attacks fro Aceh it was a trading port. Maybe Kakteh has some info about the romantic take on Muar based on Hikayat Malim Dewa-dewa Deman, in search of the Muar princess, Puteri Bongsu. Interestingly enough, my paternal ancestors also dwelled here. Oh you know the Malay vikings from Sulawesi.

As far as the Melaka empire is concerned, Muar proves to be a favourite hideout for the royal family. After Parameswara, the founder of Melaka, murdered the Temasek Sultan, he seeked asylum in Muar and built a fort in Pagoh.

Sultan Iskandar of Temasek also exiled to Muar when he was defeated by Majapahit, building his own Kota Buruk fort at Biawak Busuk. Muar continued to be a famous getaway for the Sultans that one of them chose it as his final resting place. Sultan Alauddin Riayat Syah I's mausoleum can still be found till today. Funny story about the cause of his death, some said he was stabbed by a pin. He must have been gangrenously diabetic, due to all that cendol mamak huh? Some said he was white blooded, like Mahsuri. Dunno..

If I remember correctly, a few of the Sultans' wives were from these regions. So you can say that Muar, is home to many a fallen(in love and in war) Sultan. Even Sultan Mahmud fled to Muar when the Portuguese attacked in 1511.

The father of modern Johor, Maharaja Abu Bakar also had a wife from Muar, hence the name, Bandar Maharani. It was recorded that he planted an azimat, or talisman at Tangga Batu when he officially opened the town, if you are keen on excavating the ancient relic, dig somewhere near the makan place near Muar Bus Station. This place continued to flourish with the influx of migrant traders seeking fortune here. The polarization of races was apparent during the British reign where the Malays stayed in the kampung, leaving the Arabs, Chinese and Indians who did business in town. Naturally there were chambers of commerce, secret societies of mafioso calibre that kept the town in order. If you look closely, you will notice that even the Coffee Merchants has a serious gang going on. We are talking about the coffee cartel. Serious enough to send shivers down your spine, if you are in the commodity business that is.

You will notice that the hustle and bustle down here reminds one of Chinatown, accentuated by architecture that is typical of shophouses found in antique and rustic business districts all over Malaysia. Sadly, conservation of historical buildings here leaves much to be desired. Fortunately, you will sense that the locals are not in a hurry to modernize Muar because of its rich sense of history.

Singaporeans should checkout the upscale kopitiams here, it really puts Yakun to shame. Trust the 434 connoissuers to hypnotize you with the superb coffee, while you soak in the ambience of pseudo-Shanghai glory. The town is also dotted with Portuguese and Dutch influence here and there. And the people seems to be naturally friendly and happening. The girls also have a distinct moon-shaped features on their faces that is so serenely soothing to look at. That must be why Sultans love them huh? It is Bandar Maharani after all.